Many tourists say that you have not seen the vibrant culture of India if you have not been to the pious city of Chitrakoot. I could not agree with them more. For people, it is a soul-stirring land that transports them to a different era. Located on the banks of the pious Mandakini River in Madhya Pradesh, the sacred city is a potpourri of devotion, legend and traditions. It is a place of purification and spiritual enlightenment. Natural lush-green forests, cascading streams, beautiful waterfalls, aesthetically carved temples and calls of ‘Jai Sri Ram’, lend the region a heavenly feel, which penetrates the whole atmosphere and makes one feel closer to the Lord. For me, it is a city, possessing a divine magnetic pull that calms the senses and soul.
Let Us Embark On a Spiritual Odyssey and Explore the Purified Charms of Chitrakoot
I was blessed to visit this holy place in the month of May this year and trust me, it does not matter how much you had Googled, watched videos or read books, for when I arrived in Chitrakoot for the first time, it was like being born all over again. You are no longer watching or reading about it, you are right there feeling enamored by the rich cultural heritage and tranquil surroundings. Well, for many people who are not aware of Chitrakoot’s significance, I would feel fortuned to tell that it is a prominent place cited in the great Hindu epic ‘Ramayana’. Lord Rama along with his wife Sita and brother Lakshman spent eleven of their 14 years of ‘Vanvaas’ (exile) in this holy city. The enchanting and peaceful environment acted as a source of inspiration for the renowned poet Goswami Tulsidas to write Ramcharitmanas, a poem in Awadhi depicting the life of Lord Rama. The place is dotted with many temples and sacred attractions that help to retrace the footprints of Lord Rama.
Ramghat – Experience the Oneness of Body and Soul
Perched on the banks of Mandakini River, Ramghat is an important center of many ritual activities. This is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Madhya Pradesh. Legend has it that Lord Ram along with Sita Ji and Laxman, took bath here after arriving in Chitrakoot. I was told by the local saints that it also happens to be the place where Tulsidas met Lord Rama and Laxman. There is a very interesting story behind the meeting of the Lord and his ardent devotee. Let me share it with you. Tulsidas was making a sandal paste when Lord Ram and Laxman disguised as two kids asked him to put a tilak on their forehead. Tulsidas happily marked the tilak without knowing that the kids were God. Lord Hanuman made Tulsidas recognize the Lord by reciting the famous verse, which is still engraved in my heart:
Chitrakoot ke ghaat pai bhai santan ki bheer,
Tulsidas chandan ghise tilak det Raghubeer.
The above verse means that on the ghats of Chitrakoot, Tulsidas used to rub chandan (sandalwood) and put a tilak on the forehead of Lord Rama. The aarti performed here every evening proved to be an ultimate delight to the eyes and helped me to experience the holy bliss. The main highlight of Ramghat is the unforgettable boat ride across the Mandakini River. Morning time is the perfect time to enjoy boating and seeing the first golden rays of the sun. I was simply astonished by the tranquility of the place with sounds of mantras and slokas. I sat on the stairs of the Ghat and cherished the spiritual environment of the place.
Kamadgiri – Undertake the Circumambulation of Salvation
My next stopover after Ramghat was Kamadgiri. It is a verdant hill that is considered to be the heart of Chitrakoot. The place is swarmed by tourists all around the year as they perform a ritual parikrama (circumambulation) of the hill. One of the major temples of Shri Kamatanath is nestled on the parikrama path. The sounds of devotees chanting ‘Sita Ram‘ with the tinkle of bells, coupled with the smell of incense sticks make the ambience of the place extremely peaceful and holy. Hundreds of devotees, sages and tourists like me visit Chitrakoot to discover the place of considerable religious importance.
I decided to carry out parikarma early in the morning, and was greeted by plenty of monkeys all the way. The whole area is replete with dense forests and lush-green surroundings tendering a sense of calm to every visitor. There are several shrines located on the way dedicated to Lord Rama. After sometime, I felt extremely hungry and it began to feel like rats jumping inside my stomach. To my respite, there wre many shops along the way that sell various lip-smacking local snacks like samosas, pakoras, jalebies, cold drinks and other items. I immediately quenched my hunger by munching a plate full of delectable samosas. I have to admit that the food offered by the street-side dhabas or shops can give a tough competition to some of the best hotels in Chitrakoot. Finally, after two hours, I completed my circumambulation and felt enlightened.
Sati Anusuya Ashram – The Birthplace of Mandakini River
After the memorable drive through the woods, I reached Sati Anusuya Ashram, which is around 17 km from Ramghat. It is a popular Chitrakoot tourist place and the backdrops of the mountains, chirping of the birds, make the whole environment serene. There is a temple situated in the Ashram, which is dedicated to Devi Anusuya. The architecture of the three storied Ashram depicting many scenes of the Ramayana captivated my attention. My guide informed me that Sati Anusuya brought down the Mandakini River to quench the thirst of her husband Maharishi Atri (one of the first Saptha Rishis). That is why the place is known as the birthplace of Mandakini River. Be CAREFUL with the monkeys wandering around the ashram. They are many in numbers and if you try to offer them eatables, then make sure you hold the packet tightly, otherwise you are inviting trouble.
Janaki Kund – Bathing Place of Goddess Sita
I came back from the Sati Anusuya Ashram to my hotel and rested for the night. The next morning, I went to Janaki Kund. It is a place where Goddess Sita used to take bath during the period of exile from Ayodhya. It is a unique cave and one has to climb the steps to reach the pristine pool, located on the left bank of the Mandakini River. The footprints of Sita can still be seen here and are worshipped by the devotees. There is a temple nearby the pool dedicated to Lord Rama and Sita. People throng this place in large numbers to bathe in the crystal-clear waters. It is one of the most recommended places to see in Chitrakoot. Reaching this place is not a big hassle as you can quite easily reach it by road or by taking a boat ride from Ramghat.
Bharat Milap Temple – Where Selfless Love between Brothers Melted Stones
The magnificent Bharat Milap Temple is a place where Bharat (one of the younger brothers of Lord Rama) came to meet Lord Ram and offered him the kingdom of Ayodhya. According to mythological stories, the meeting between the two brothers was so overwhelming that even the stones melted. Their footprints can still be seen engraved in the stones. I was told by my guide that in the months of October and November, a fair is organized every year. The fair is known by the name ‘Bharat Milap Mela’, which is celebrated with great pomp and enthusiasm. Thousands of devotees and visitors come here to participate in the fair and see the vivid cultural heritage of the sacred city.
Gupt Godavari – The Secret Water Springs of Chitrakoot
Next, I visited Gupt Godavari, which is primarily a cave temple. It is around 18 km away from Ramghat. My car broke down mid way, and I was running out of time, so, I didn’t have much option, but to catch a bus to Gupt Godavari. The bus was filled with devotees going to Gupt Godavari. Their sweet bhajans still reverberate in my ears. Finally, after some 15-20 minutes, I reached my desired destination. As I entered the cave, I suddenly felt very warm and the rocky walls were quite remarkable and seemed like they have been cut from the huge eclectic saws. The caves are filled with crystal-clear spring water and it is believed that the water is connected to the Godavari River underground. That is why the place got the name Gupt Godavari. Walking barefoot on the cold water was certainly a very delightful experience. The Panchmukhi Shiva located outside the caves also attracts the visitors.
How to Reach
Now, after going through the blog, many of you may be planning a trip to Chitrakoot and if that is a case, then I would definitely help you to reach the place in a hassle-free manner. There is no best time to visit this holy place as you can plan a journey any season. The holy city of Chitrakoot can be conveniently reached through three different modes:
By Air
The nearest airports to reach Chitrakoot are Khajuraho (185 km) and Varanasi (260 km). The airport is very well connected to all the major cities of India.
By Train
The closest railhead is Chitrakoot Dham (Karwi) (11 Kms). You can hire cabs, taxis or take the state transport buses from outside the station to reach your desired destination.
By Road
Frequent bus services are available from Satna (75 km), Karwi ( 8 km), Jhansi (274 km), Mahoba (127 km), Lucknow (285 km), Allahabad (125 km) and Kalinjar (274 km).
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